An adventure to one of the world's gayest islands.
Last year we were terribly under-prepared and found ourselves stuck in the hot city while everyone was going to the beach in Fire Island. We decided to say ‘fuck it’ and just head up there and see what we could make happen. Here’s what we did.
No trip to Fire Island, New York’s homo-away-from-home, is completely free. The trick we’re going to give you is one of the oldest in the book, but it’s a good one. Basically you are going to have to pay for your transportation, and you may have to buy a drink or two, but that should be about it.
First up, here’s the rule for going to Fire Island without a place to stay: if you’re comfortable sleeping on the beach as a last resort, then everything will be OK, but you shouldn’t have to. First, pick a weekend when people you know will be there. You don’t have to know them well, you just have to know them. Send them a message that you’ll be on the island beforehand and then when you arrive send another. Catch up with them, be friendly, and make an effort. People are more welcoming in Fire Island because they’re in vacation mood.
The trick is to not tell them you have no where to stay at first. Wait until you’ve been hanging out for a while. I’ve never been to a house in Fire Island that didn’t have a couch, and if you and your friends go out for the night, and you don’t meet a dude to go home with (that’s really the golden ticket), there’s a pretty high chance they’ll let you sleep on it. And if not there’s always the beach, as I said, if you can put up with a sandy night’s sleep under the stars, then you’ve really got nothing to lose.
I know this might seem like an obvious trick, but it really works. Below are a few photos from our last trip to the island. We ended up sleeping on a cramped old couch but we had no complaints. Abi even managed to score another night’s stay. It was better than being in the stinky city for another hot weekend that’s for damn sure.
Left: check out the crowd of homosexuals waiting in line to take the ferry from Sayville. Right: once we arrived we decided to eat our sandwiches and open a bottle of wine that we brought with us — having a little party while we figured out what to do next… Most people were ignoring us, others told us that we could get a ticket from drinking in that area… Some of the queens didn’t understand that bench was our accomodation for the moment.
Left: The great thing about FI is that you are always going to find people comfortable being naked, it’s so refreshing. Right: Me swimming in the cold water because I have this weird Australian rule that if I go to the beach I have to get in.
Later on we arrived at this party and we got to hang out with Bruce Vilanch — and of course Abi had to do a little bit of self promotion wearing our lovely GAYLETTER t-shirt. It was a great conversation starter. Later on we were the first people to get in the pool, well second technically behind this young boy with a hot body — he was obviously looking to get attention and a sugar daddy.
Left: We got drunk and of course we found a way to stay for the night. Right: Tom getting some food at the very limited supermarket. Bring your own food to Fire Island, that supermarket is terrible, and soooo over-priced.
Free-ish, Fire Island Pines (Pines houses are much nicer than the ones in Cherry Grove, not that you’re in a position to be picky).
We spent a night at SOHO's newest hotel. It was the cutting up.
Abi and I recently spent a night in the penthouse suite at The Broome Hotel in SOHO. The hotel is very unassuming, it’s entrance you could easily walk by without noticing what was going on inside. It’s a 14 room establishment that has something pretty incredible going for it: a gorgeous open-air courtyard it’s built around. For a city as tightly packed as NYC it feels almost sacrilegious to not fill in every square foot of available space, but boy is it wonderful edition to the hotel.
It was Oscars weekend when we visited, so we decided to invite a few friends over to watch the show. Being in the penthouse there was plenty of space to fit everyone in (I just love how that sentence sounds). The hotel has a very classic feel to it. Rooms are subdued and understated. Once you’re inside the hotel, you really could be anywhere. The courtyard acts as a buffer, helping to soundproof the city around you.
Attached to the courtyard is a very Parisian-like cafe, that will soon open to the public. It serves all sorts of traditional French dishes, and is undoubtedly going to be a hit with in-the-know locals wanting to impress their companions with this hidden gem.
We took a few photos while staying at The Broome and asked the manager of the hotel to answer a few questions about the hotel. Check it out below.
How long have you been open? The Broome opened on February 14, 2014, which coincided with Valentines Day. We actually offered a cheeky package called The Jean Claude to our guests for opening weekend which included a comp. bottle of Prosecco, a late check out, and one of the CV Intimacy Kits that are typically found in the hotel’s mini-bar.
Who is behind the hotel? Vincent Boitier, Damien Jacquinet, and brothers Jean Claude Iacovelli and Stephane Iacovelli. Boitier and the Iacovelli brothers have been wining and dining SoHo denizens for 25 years, at the helm of some of the neighborhood’s most spirited establishments including Fiat Café, Café Lure, Jean Claude, Soho Steak, L’Orange Bleue & Provence.
How did it come about? In 2007, Boitier, and the Iacovelli brothers shifted their focus from restaurants to hotels, purchasing 431 Broome Street, in the form of its last incarnation, an artist loft populated with SoHo’s bohemian graffiti vandals. In 2012, Entrepreneur and longtime restaurant patron, Damien Jacquinet, joined forces with the trio as an investor, helping to put the finishing touches on the project. The Four Frenchmen have infused their European sensibility, coupled with their love of New York, into The Broome. After seven years of meticulous renovation, The Broome is now every bit as modern as the city that has built up around it, while still maintaining an inviting and warm ambiance.
How many rooms are there? There are 14 Rooms broken down into four categories (Standard Queen, Deluxe Queen Patio, Junior Suites, and the Penthouse)
How do you hope guests will feel while staying at The Broome? Relaxed, Transported, and at Ease. We want our guests to feel like they are home among city-savvy friends, who can point them in the right direction for a hidden dumpling spot, or a nearby beautiful city park.
What’s your favorite part of the neighborhood? The neighborhood feel it has. Vincent and the Iacovelli brothers have been Soho residents for nearly 25 years, so we’ve been really warmly embraced by our neighbors, and we feel at home here.
What’s your favorite part of the hotel? The courtyard, but also the Penthouse rooftop, which overlooks busy Broome Street but still somehow feels far away. There is a great table up there where you can host a small dinner party. In the summer it will be an incredible perch with a great view of Manhattan.
Tell me about the courtyard, was that always planned or just a lucky part of the project? In Mediterranean cultures, where we take much of our inspiration, there’s always a heart of the home where the family gathers to eat, drink and share stories. Typically, its an outdoor space similar to our courtyard with the open air atrium. Its a complete dichotomy from the chaos of the city, and allows guests to have their own slice of peace in a heavenly setting.
What kind of guests have you had stay at the hotel? So far it’s really been a mix. We have many european travelers looking for a more homey hotel experience, but we have also had our fair share of New Yorkers, looking for a weekend escape. The hotel is really transformative, and makes you feel like you’re far away, even though Soho is buzzing right outside. It’s a really restful staycation spot.
Who designed the hotel? The owners designed the hotel, with help from their friend and design consultant, Olivier Weisse. They took inspiration from Soho’s industrial style, and decided to go contemporary, with a nod to the community around us. The hotel is literally furnished by our neighbors! Everything we purchased is in walking distance from us including BDDW, Thomas O’Brien, Jonathan Adler, Design within Reach, and Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams.
We spent a week at the newly opened hotel in LA's Koreatown.
We’d been hearing about the recently opened The Line Hotel in Los Angeles for a while now, so on our last trip to LA had to go check it out. It’s a very cool space, which comes as little surprise considering the people behind it, The Sydell Group, is also connected with the Ace hotels in New York and Palm Springs, the Saguaro hotels in Scottsdale, Ariz., and Palm Springs, the NoMad Hotel in New York, and the Freehand Miami hostel in South Beach, Miami. Sean Knibb of Knibb Design in LA is responsible for the interiors.
Located in Koreatown the “388-room lodging is surrounded by a big night-life scene, blocks from a snazzy 24-hour Korean spa, three miles west of downtown, six miles east of Beverly Hills. When they open, the hotel’s restaurants are to be Pot (hot-pot cuisine) and Commissary (vegetarian focus), run by Roy Choi, the prolific purveyor of Mexican Korean street food.”
All the other times we’ve visited LA, we’ve stayed in West Hollywood — mainly because it’s closer to the stuff we’re interested in (and I don’t mean just gay bars…but that helps). Being in Koreatown was a new experience. It’s perfect if you’re in to Karaoke or the BCD Tofu House, and for those with artistic interests LACMA is only a few minutes away on Wilshire Blvd.
The rooms at the Line are very comfortable, but quite small, and filled with too many designer knick-knacks. If you can, book a room with a Hollywood Hills view. The rooms have a wall of windows facing out onto the hills, which really opens up the space, and it’s a gorgeous sight at sunset.
Despite the size of the rooms, we would definitely stay at The Line again; once the restaurants and pool open we have no doubt it’s going to become a buzzy hot spot. Enjoy it while you can.
A serape-upholstered chair. It’s available to order from Knibb Design.
A very British hotel in the middle of West Hollywood
We visited The London Hotel West Hollywood a while back on a trip to Los Angeles. We usually like to stay at more boutique style hotels, but when in LA we love to stay at the London. It’s a large hotel, but it has a lot going for it. First of all it’s location is everything. It’s right at the base of the Hollywood Hills, and right above West Hollywood. This is great for two reasons: one you get a great view of the city and the hills behind you, and secondly you’re only blocks away from all the fag bars in WeHo, which when you’re visiting without a car is very convenient for stumbling home drunk.
Another cool thing about the London is the included buffet breakfast by Gordon Ramsay (not like he cooks it every morning, but he came up with the menu). It’s wonderfully lavish. There’s all number of hot and cold options, plus these delicious mini quiches: the quiches, you’ve got to try the quiches!
The bathrooms are another impressive feature of the hotel. The only problem is they’ll make you feel shitty about where you live because the one in my room was literally bigger than my apartment in New York. It was like a Grecian bathhouse in there with all that marble and multiple shower heads. Below are a couple of pics of our last trip.
Some images from our instagram from the last time we were staying at The London West Hollywood. From Top left: A view from the pool; hanging out with Abi at night time by the pool; Out and about — out the front of The Abbey with two brothers, one was gay one was straight; modeling some prints and expensive eyewear in WeHo.
I went on a fantastic spontaneous roadtrip to Washington D.C. with my friend, GAYLETTER contributor and groundbreaking artist Renee Cox. She had a couple of appointments with important curators there and I went along for the ride. I packed a black Juicy Couture corduroy blazer (cuz I know those queens love a lapel) a couple of french tailored pressed shirts, a nice bottle of red for the car, some tomme de savoie (that’s cheese), pistachio nuts and a cock ring. The drive down went by in a flash, we had so much catching up to do. We arrived at our host Shawanda‘s cute house dropped our bags, had a cocktail and pressed on to the spot that was hosting Renee’s cocktail party the next night for a boozy dinner, then straight to bed.
We woke in bright sunshine, Renee made a breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice and steel cut oatmeal with maple syrup. While she went on to her meeting I investigated the National Portrait Gallery for the very first time. WOW, spent hours in that place. The exhibition of all the president’s portraits from Washington on was intense. Props to Bill Clinton for choosing Chuck Close to do his portrait. Apparently each sitting president chooses the painter they want to do their portrait-who knew? While deep in thought at the photo contest installation adjacent to the presidents, Renee texted me she was done. We met around the corner at OYA, a fabulous Japanese restaurant where we had sashimi, beers and a photo shoot in their black and white over-designed lounge. Then Renee split for appointment #2 and I went to the Corcoran Gallery for a brief visit. After it was time to head to the cocktail party.
I stayed in the background as Renee circulated effortlessly among the collectors and art patrons at the party. We went to a nearby french bistro for dinner where fortunately the waiter accidentally dumped a glass of red wine on Shawanda’s assistant and after some heated discussion, gave us the whole meal for free. Right to bed, no gay bars as promised, no need for the cock ring.
We woke early because Shawanda had to go to work and drove around for awhile waiting for The National Gallery to open at 10. We passed the Navy Yard where the shooting occurred which was sad. We parked right in front of the Capitol on the mall and had to run around chasing quarters for the meter…can you imagine? Begging for change from the cashier in the National Gallery gift shop while we are at the geographical epicenter of our government, how pedestrian! Once the car was sorted we went back into the National Gallery and saw an amazing tightly edited show of Kerry James Marshall as well as an enticing show of Ellsworth Kelley prints. But the true standout, for me at least, was the extensive exhibition about the Ballet Russes. We then tried to go back to Oya but they were having a private lunch for Trayvon Martin so we went to their sister restaurant whose name escapes me.
After lunch we hit the highway home with a stopover at the University of Delaware to visit Renee’s buff son and buy a computer at the local Apple Store and have some mall pizza. I then took the wheel to bring it on home back to our very own shiny apple. Happy to have gone, happy to be home.
Images from Church Dublin a monthly party in Ireland
Once a month, there is a service unlike any other in Catholic Ireland — one fuelled by a hedonistic celebration of sin. Church Dublin is one of the city’s hottest new gay-friendly club nights, and those that answer the High Priests’ (Dave Byrne, Kyle Barnett and James Kavanagh) call to worship offer glimpses of a very progressive, very eclectic, and very attractive future.
To date, each event has been held at The Pint down Eden Quay, a fitting venue spanning multiple floors connected by winding stairs and even offering a large open-air smoking deck. However, it is the central dance-floor where sinners gather and, in the shadow of looming crucifixes, a gorgeous array of Irishmen and women stumble and sway at the foot of the altar.
Biblical themes so far have included the Immaculate, Baptism, the Garden of Eden, and a special night of Halloween Necromancy. The range of local DJ’s passing through Church also means that various voices have joined together in the creation of an intoxicating repertoire of Hymns, which has included the likes of Azelia Banks, Cyril Hahn, Disclosure, M83, Eurythmics and M.I.A.
Church Dublin takes its inspiration seriously: it’s an event that not only welcomes all types of people, but thrives off the diversity of its congregation. It is this rejection of stigma that draws such a vibrant group each month — by celebrating those typically castigated as sinners, Church shows the inclusiveness that should characterise a house of worship. The truth of these debauched papal parties resonates, penetrating even the daze induced by remarkably well-priced ‘Holy Water’.
Typically occurring on the third or fourth Saturday of the month, at the unbeatable cover of €5, Church is an absolute must for anyone visiting the Emerald Isle. What’s more, for those with flexibility it is something to keep in mind when planning an Irish get-away. I first stepped up to the pews while on a visit to friends from my home in Scotland. Four days later, I’d already booked tickets back to coincide with the next event.
So if any of you are in Dublin on November 23rd, come to Church — follow the lead of Dublin’s finest and fall to your knees in fervent worship of His word.
A hotel for people with good taste and fat wallets.
The Spanish city of Barcelona, with a population of 1.6 million, is super gay friendly. In fact, behind Germany, Spain is the most fag friendly country in the world. You certainly get the sense, not just from their love of Almodovar movies, that it’s a very laid back, friendly place. Over the next couple of weeks we’ll be featuring a few of the places we visited on our trip.
First up is the El Palauet in the suburb of Gràcia. It’s one of the most luxurious places we’ve ever been. The hotel manager wouldn’t tell me what celebrities had stayed there, but I’m sure I’ve seen an Instagram of Rihanna smoking a blunt in a double-denim-midriff-baring outfit on one of the same couches we had in our suite. And when I say “suite” I’m not exaggerating. Honestly they should be called apartments, cos they’re that big. Ours had an entry way, full kitchen, dining room, living room, 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms with walk-in closets. Then there was the chromo showers, Japanese toilets (they came with a menu of options) and full balcony overlooking the Passeig de Gràcia.
There’s no need to dial ’0′ to reach the front desk when you need something at the El Palauet. Every guest is given access to a personal assistant who’s available to assist you 24 hours a day. Whenever we called our assistant Christian his response would always be the same: “I’ll be up in 5 minutes.” Didn’t matter if all we needed was a suggestion for a restaurant, or to ask how to turn on the TV, every time he’d appear at our door in 5 minutes as promised.
While we’re totally away not everyone can afford to stay at the El Palauet (rooms start at around $700 a night) if ever there was a place to splurge on (even for a night) this is it. We chatted with Lorna from the hotel to give us a little more info about the place.
How long has the El Palauet been open? El Palauet opened its suites to the public at the end of December 2009.
Can you tell me about the history of the building? The Bonaventura Ferrer family commissioned the architect Pere Falqués to build their family home which we use today as El Palauet. On the Tinell floor (lower ground) was the kitchen, the cellars and the servant’s living quarters. The rooms on the ground and first floor were the main rooms of the house where the family received their guests and enjoyed family time. Where the suites are now, were the family’s bedrooms. After being a family home the building was separated into private homes and offices. Finally, since 2007 the former living rooms were converted into spaces for private events and from the end of December 2009 the suites were opened.
You use the word “tolerant” a lot on your website when talking about the place. What does that mean to you guys? It’s our motto and it’s our way of describing the city.
“THE FAMOUS TOLERANT AND VIBRANT SPIRIT OF BARCELONA IS WAITING FOR YOU!”
Is Barcelona a tolerant city towards gays? Barcelona is a very cool and very gay friendly city, in fact Barcelona Pride week took place just last week!
Do you consider the place a hotel, it seems a lot more than that? We like our clients to feel completely at home when they stay at El Palauet and so we pride ourselves on a personalized experience. We enjoy going the extra mile for all our guests and that is one of the things that keeps them coming back again and again.
Who designed the place? The El Palauet Living Barcelona team.
I loved the chromo shower, Can you tell me about one of your favorite features of the hotel? For our Director, Jana Santamaria, one of her favorite things is how Modernist design is integrated in the building, like the carved wooden stairs, the chandelier which has 17000 Bohemian crystals combined with the up to date technology and the more modern materials. In the suites she loves the small details such as the peephole which is on the suite doors, made by artisan designers of the 21st Century is a replica of the original peephole in the access doors on the staircase. She also loves the terrace in the Principal Paseo de Gracia suite, having breakfast, first thing in the morning overlooking Passeig de Gràcia on that terrace is just bliss. In the Tibidabo suites she is head over heels about the original stained glass windows in the living room which give the suite a special quality.
Welcome to the chromo shower. Chromotherapy is a “complementary medicine“ method. Trained chromotherapists claim to be able to use light in the form of color to “balance energy wherever a person’s body be lacking, whether it be on physical, emotional, spiritual, or mental levels.” I didn’t know chromo showers existed before my visit to the El Palauet, and while it didn’t make me want to rush out and install one in my apartment, it was very relaxing. Above is me in my green phase.
Every room gets a personal assistant, what are some of the strangest requests they have been asked to do? The personal assistants have had many difficult, sometimes almost impossible requests but there haven’t been any really strange ones.
Can you tell me about the neighborhood the hotel is in? The hotel is located on Passeig de Gràcia, originally built to connect the old town with the village of Gràcia it is now one of the main shopping streets in Barcelona and the perfect street for luxury shops. Passeig de Gràcia is also home to La Pedrera and Casa Batlló, two of Gaudí’s most famous works and the ornate lampposts were designed by the same architect who designed El Palauet, Pere Falqués. To the north of the hotel is the Gràcia neighborhood. Once an independent village it’s now part of the city but still with its own distinct feel. Gràcia is perfect to explore as there aren’t many tourists or many crowds and in our, slightly biased, opinion, it is one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in Barcelona.
We were invited to spend a weekend in Barryville (Upstate New York) about a month ago from the owners of the Stickett Inn (hehe get it? stick-it-in). Barryville is a tiny town where everyone knows everyone. There’s a diner and a general store, plus a cute antique store and a German style restaurant. That’s about it. However the surrounding forests, and the Delaware River, make it the perfect place to spend a lazy summer weekend.
The Stickett Inn was founded by Johnny Pizzolato (entertainer and co-owner of the International Playground shop and showroom) and Roswell Hamrick (Production Designer for TV and Film, Interior Designer) at the start of 2013. The owners are a cute couple who clearly have excellent taste. We were so impressed by the interiors we decided to take a few photos to share with you. The boys told us that their vision for the inn was for it to be a “Sexy Boyscout camp for gays — a modern enclave in the woods with all the conveniences of the city, but away from it all… girl.” Cute.
What follows is a diary of our weekend at the Inn. We were joined by two of the GAYLETTER family: William and Mossy.
This is the living room of the Steam suite (the rooms are named after their major feature — the Steam Room has a steam machine in the bathroom and the Eat room, where Mossy and Tom stayed, included a full kitchen).
The rooms are filled with art by Trey Speegle. The boys seem to really like his work cos it’s in all over the damn place.
Cute stationary very reminiscent of the Ace Hotel.
We had a hot tub on the first night after the drive from the city nearly killed us (google maps screwed up and took us 2 hours in the wrong direction — two bottles of wine probably didn’t help either). We were drunk and starved by the time we arrived, so a warm soak was just what we needed.
Before we started our day we headed to the Woodloch Pines Spa for a much needed treatment. This spa definetly needed some homosexuals, we got a lot of looks from the visitors there, but you know, living in the woods it’s hard to find handsome progressive men like us… but we had a great time — we all had massages by nice middle aged men, we used their facilities and drank their nice tea. We felt like ladies after and headed back to the hotel…
Our vintage shopping looks which involved boxers worn as shorts and our Riudavets sandals.
Then we met the owner of the vintage shop, she was lovely we had a nice long conversation with her about the art market in NYC, her time as a model, how much stuff she sells each season (all of it)…Mossy and her got on like a house on fire.
On the Delaware side of the river their was this amazing bar wit an original 20′s 4-lane bowling alley on the 2nd floor. It was really beautiful. Tom is run-waying along it. Moments later, once we headed back downstairs to the bar, we nearly got in a fight with some wasted local girl and her closeted boyfriend (he was hot). Luckily we left before things turned ugly (there was 2 of them and 6 of us, so clearly they didn’t stand a chance against all us butch queens) but still, our clothes are too nice to get bloody.
A hotel that feels like home
If we were visiting New York, Ace Hotel on 29th St. is where we’d stay. It’s in a quiet part of town, not really near anything in particular (well besides a few wig stores and Madison Square Park), but it’s still one of the most interesting hotels in the city. Rooms are designed to look like apartments, and start at only $249. With an Opening Ceremony store on the ground floor, three amazing restaurants, and a Stumptown coffee shop, you really have no reason to leave the building. It’s also owned by really cool fags, so the staff won’t bat an eyelid when you enter the lobby at 4AM with three German backpackers, and that nervous Puerto Rican thug you met outside The Cock on your way home.
The first Ace Hotel opened in Seattle in 1999. Since then they have expanded to Portland, Palm Springs, NYC and this year they’re set to open in London and Los Angeles. We spent a night at the NYC hotel recently. We had an amazing time in the beautiful old building with its wildly decorated interiors designed by the in-demand design firm Roman and Williams. Cos we asked nicely, they put us in one of their most interesting rooms. It was filled with an eclectic mix of furniture, and of course their trademark record player, and a collection of indie records. What we liked most about the hotel is their attention to detail. There is NO part of the hotel experience they have not thought about. From the cute bags holding the hairdryers to the board games you can borrow from the front desk. It’s the little things that make the biggest difference, and every little thing is so well thought out throughout the property. Check out some picks of our stay below.
We went downstairs to one of our favorite stores Opening Ceremony — the entrance has this art overlaid with lots of different messages. Plus they have stickers with similar messages you can take away.
Before it got dark we took a walk to Eataly on the west side of Madison Square Park.
We went up to La Birreria on the roof of Eatly. This is Abi trying one of the restaurant’s home brewed beers.
We headed downstairs the next morning for brunch at the Breslin. The food is pretty rich, but after a night drinking, it really hits the spot.
Ace Hotel, 20 West 29th Street New York, NY. Visit the website.
I understand that David Lynch has been referenced in each post. It’s unintentional — trust me. Maybe I haven’t gone traveling through the USA — maybe I’ve actually crawled into the head of David Lynch… our hotel room in Albuquerque looks extremely Lynchian.
After enjoying the Lynchian installation we walked across town to the liquor store so we could get smiley before arriving at the “best gay bar in Albuquerque,” Sidewinders. The guy behind the counter at the liquor store was wearing a Jack Daniels t-shirt but the Jack Daniels had been replaced with the word Redneck — he said “ya’ll be safe now” — what a cliché, brilliant.
After going back to the Lynchian room and getting perfectly floppy armed we called a cab — one and a half hours later the cab came. (Since Alice wasn’t happy with the photo I posted last time I thought I’d make it up to her with this divine Casually Waiting For Cab shot — mine too)
Sidewinders — what a horrible place to be, cool drag queens but depraved patrons. While there I was thinking about what to refer to these folks as. I’ve decided to go with “derelict sleazes.” I understand that this is a generalization but I honestly wasn’t presented with any other kind of person, other than the employees and the performers. One 40-year-old guy offered me to join him in a drug fueled orgy with his homeless looking friends, I turned his offer down and he snapped his fingers at me. At first I was annoyed and thought he was a bastard but then I realized that he’s 40 years old and still hasn’t learned how to be a human, I no longer resent him, I pity him. One consistent attribute of all these gay bars we’ve visited on the road is that everyone is in costume. Either you’re in drag or you’re in another kind of drag, a bro drag — a disguise so that the people in town won’t beat you up. I don’t dress particularly flamboyantly but I always feel like the biggest diva in the room — other than the drag queens of course. The one good thing to come out of our night at Sidewinders was that Alice got to see her very first drag show — she was so happy. I told her that it really wasn’t a particularly great show, but she didn’t believe me — I’ll have to show her some Manhattan shows, she may explode.
It’s quite a shame because I did really enjoy Albuquerque as a city but these fiends that go Sidewinders really ruined the perception. Back to highway in the early morning hours — we were picked up after about four hours, I will refer to this guy as “the man who knows everything” or TMWKE. This wasn’t a two and a half hour drive from Albuquerque to Gallup — this was a two and half hour lecture on Navajo culture, gang activity, secret underground military bases, hang gliding, weather, highway repair, Australian cuisine, Korean cuisine, health care and other things. TMWKE also told me that the world heroin supply goes through Singapore and that you can find drugs easily on the street there — easier than most countries…he has never been there and I lived there for 13 years but he declared that I was wrong and he was right. This ride gave me time to consider the function of knowledge. Yes, TMWKE is a smart guy but the way he used his knowledge made me want to loose all of mine — I’ve decided that speaking opinions and sharing knowledge makes you seem really stupid.
We arrived in Gallup and decided to grab some “Chinese food“ — TMWKE told us it was some of the best Chinese food he’d ever had (he’s been all around the world, except Singapore) — the food was horrendous, maybe he’s not so smart after all. We had won. I know I sound terribly petty at this point but if you met TMWKE — you’d understand.
After our education in Chinese cuisine we walked under the highway bridge to hitch a ride to Holbrook. My boyfriend Noah and the lovely Monica were waiting for us in a concrete teepee there — the iconic Wigwam Motel — they are our final ride to Los Angeles. Under the bridge Alice was approached by yet another meth-head who wanted to sell her some earrings or maybe even a hat — she wasn’t interested. I never really knew how common meth was until this trip, each city and each ride was somewhat related to meth. Most of the time it was people who didn’t do it saying it was all over the place, others were on it and others had friends who were on it. I guess it comes out of severe boredom because most, if not all, of the cities we visited had very little to offer in terms of recreation. It really was quite depressing. We also passed a sign while driving through a Native American reservation that had a picture of a tribe and the words “Don’t meth with us” slapped over there faces – weird sign I thought. We also passed another sign in the same area that had a photograph of a Native American baby with the words “Abortion is not the Indian way” written on it. The integration of Native American culture within the desert area is really odd — many dolls for sale, many rugs, lots of jewelry…it’s a combination of exploitation and guilt tripping…
We hitched our last ride — it was yet another pickup truck which is perfect. We’ve found a new love for pickup trucks — I want one. One hour later we arrived at the concrete teepee with Noah and Monica — wunderbar.
Meet our friends.
Meet our Wigwam — our new favorite place on earth.
Surprisingly there isn’t much to do in Holbrook outside of our Wigwam, certainty no queer bars to report on. This left us with one option — walk across the street and buy some tequila, margarita mix, salt, lemons and really cool plastic cups. This was definitely the perfect way to reconnect with reality — drinking in Wigwam with friends. No more strangers, no more thumbs, no more signs, no more bars, no more meth — just seeing familiar faces and listening to our own music (most drivers played despicable tunes and most bars followed suit). Monica got a little bit restless so we decided to wander to a nearby desert rock and discuss truckers.
Waking up in a Wigwam with your boyfriend, who you haven’t seen in awhile, is a pretty interesting experience — you should try it. Another morning spent rushing to get back on the road, this is our last time. The ride was long but lots of fun. After approximately 4 hours we had made it to California.
Here’s the list of places we hit up on the trip:
Manhattan (NY) to Pittsburg (PA) to Zanesville (OH) to Columbus (OH) to Dayton (OH) to Indianapolis (IN) to St. Louis (MO) to Springfield (MO) to Mt. Vernon (MO) to Joplin (MO) to Big Cabin (OK) to Sallisaw (OK) to Shawnee (OK) to Oklahoma City (OK) to El Reno (OK) to Amarillo (TX) to Moriarty (NM) to Albuquerque (NM) to Gallup (NM) to Holbrook (AZ) to Los Angeles (CA).
Here’s the list of transportation:
Train from Manhattan to Pittsburg. Recently divorced man in van with carving of an elk. Police officer with nothing better to do. Guy who recently moved to town. Daniel Johnston look-alike. Man with dead eyes and strange topics of conversation in military pickup. Man who spent three years in prison and beat up fags. Friends of Frank Booth. Bus from Indianapolis to St. Louis. Bus from St. Louis to Springfield. Wunderbar teenage couple with child. Amazing old psychedelic woman. Hunter S. Thompson minus the genius. Hank Hill and Bobby Hill. Old guy with booming voice. Doctor who loved jazz. Christian family with foster child. The teenage millionaire. Young mother with loud children leaving her crack head husband. Woman and children with unsettling hair style. The glorious Ezekiel. The terrible Tony. The starvation comment guy. The glorious Michelle. The college students from Flagstaff who drove really fast. The man who knew everything. The final couple with the pickup truck.
After seeing a large chunk of America I have come to the conclusion that America is weird and unbelievably diverse — each city felt almost like a different country. Alice and I decided that this trip was particularly weird because most of the time was spent either on the side of the road covered in grime with our thumbs out or sitting in a car with someone you have nothing in common with trying your best to converse. This sounds painfully dull and utterly repetitive but the interesting thing was that there was not a dull moment. We spent a week and two days observing and contemplating. In regards to gay culture in middle America — it seems rather challenging but also more communal, what we have in Manhattan they lack but what they have we lack. There isn’t any need for pretension in these places because none of it really matters — there is oddly a stronger sense of equality in the Bible Belt. This trip was grueling and surprising. I now encourage some sympathy for the devil.
Now I get to stay in Los Angeles until the 28th of June — no more road life.
The act of hitchhiking with my fag-hag, the lovely Alice, from NY to LA is a novel experience above all else. Trains, buses and strangers cars will serve as our main modes of transportation — fortunately/unfortunately. This plan is foolishly romantic but clichés exist for a reason — because they’re wonderful!